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New question submitted on 2012-05-10 by josh:
I have hard starting problem on a craftsman rider B&S engine 18 HP 31H7777. When cold it takes some time to start I have changed gas , shot some carb cleaner in car while it was running. At time it will back fire thru carb. Got any suggestions

Joe Says:
Hard starting cold could be a couple of things, but hard starting cold and some backfire when running leads me to think you have a carb problem. Pull the carb and kit it. Spraying carb cleaner thru the carb when the engine is running does nothing to clean the inside of the carb. It will require removal and disassembly to properly clean it. Joe

New question submitted on 2012-03-25 by Jim:
Hi Joe- Was given a Poulan Micro XXV. The guy said the carb was prob gummed up. Found out the gas line was broke in two different spots. I replaced the gas line and sprayed the carb. Can get it to run when I pour fuel in carb but then dies. Carb not sucking gas. Took fuel filter off, same thing. It will stay running when I spray the carb, but can't see gas running through gas line. Do I need a kit? Could it be something else. Has an on/off switch. How do I tell if that's bad? Thanks! Jim

Joe Says:
Jim, Your saws problem is your lacking fuel, thats why it runs when you prime it. Your switch is working or it wouldn't run at all, even when primed. Pull the carb and overhaul it. Get a kit with new diaphragms and make sure all of the passageways are open. This should fix the problem providing you don't have any crankcase leaks. Joe

New question submitted on 2012-03-23 by josh:
I have troybilt roto tiller, 3 hp Tecomseh engine I have burned three belts already .The belt that is org equip burns up to ,so I bought one from the auto supply place same thing. Motor pulley is real hot. Have any ideas?

Joe Says:
Josh, Make sure of the adjustment and alignment(make sure it's not going into reverse at the same time it's going forward). Next, have the belt off and turn the transmission input pulley, it should turn easily. If not, the there is a problem with the trans. That's my advice without being able to look at it. Joe

New question submitted on 2012-03-22 by Paul:
I have a Honda lawn mower that worked fine when stored last fall. The only problem was sometimes the pull rope wouldn't go back in all the way right away - it would eventually go in. This spring I went to start it and I can hardly pull the rope and when I can manage to pull it the engine does nothing and the rope doesn't go back in. Any ideas?

Joe Says:
Paul, I think you have more than one problem. First, the reason the rope doesn't go back in right away is that the rewind needs cleaning. The spring is so dirty it takes a while for it to retract. A good cleaning should take care of this problem. Second, I think the reason your mower pulls over hard is because it could be fluid locked. Sometimes when stored with fuel in them, the carburetor over flows and fills the cylinder. This can make it very hard to pull over. Take the spark plug out, evacuate the cylinder and try again. Use caution because if it is filled with fuel, it is flammable. Also on BBC units, if the blades are on wrong it will turn over hard and on non-BBC unit a dirty deck can cause problems. Joe

New question submitted on 2012-02-07 by brian:
I would like to know what the point gap on the tecumseh engine on the jiffy model 30 ice drill is.

Joe Says:
If your unit has points, the gap is .020

New question submitted on 2011-11-22 by Gary:
I have a strikemaster Magnum III 49cc ice auger. It only runs wide open. I have no throttle control when squeezing the throttle lever. According to strikemaster diagram it appears the linkage and springs are correctly attached. Any idea what could be wrong?

Joe Says:
Gary, Obliviously, something is not correct. If the throttle linkage is all correct and functioning correctly as you say, then check to make sure you throttle plate didn't fall off the throttle shaft. If it's there then something is not right with the throttle linkage. It should function smoothly moving the throttle from idle position to full throttle without binding. Remember, the govenor slows the engine down it doesn't speed it up.

New question submitted on 2011-06-11 by Dave:
Howdy Joe, I have a 12.5 hp briggs vertical shaft motor off an old turf power rider that I am trying to get running. the numbers off it are 289707 0154 01 9211054E. The problem with it is that after a couple of minutes running, the motor will vomit gas out of the air filter hole and die. I have replaced the float and float pin, the needle and the fuel elbow as it was shot. I also pulled the needle seat this morning and replaced that. I also pulled both screws on the exterior of the carb and blew cleaner through these and any holes on the screws I could find. I also pulled the main jet out and did the same with that. After all that, it is still presenting the problem. Any ideas?

Joe Says:
It sounds like you covered most of the bases. However, I can only assume that you did the repair/replacement of parts correctly....and you know what happen when you assume something. Now, I have some questions. You say the engine is off a riding mower, is it being used on a rider or for some other application? Is it being operated in a level position? If you have another fuel source attached to it other than the factory tank and it is larger, it could have too much pressure for the inlet needle to control. You said that you took the carb apart and sprayed thru it. The carb should be completely disassembled and soaked to make sure everything is open. A plugged atmospheric vent will cause the carb to run over. When you are done with the carb it should be pressure checked to make sure the inlet needle and seat are working. I think if you check and do these things it should work correctly.

New question submitted on 2011-03-25 by Adrian:
I have a Snapper rear engine mower model 301011BE that keeps burning the belt in one spot. When the blade is disengaged, the pulley? belt guide? above the drive disc burns a hole in that one spot on the belt since the belt is no longer spinning. Is there supposed to be a free spinning bearing or something that I'm missing. Thanks in advance.

Joe Says:
Adrian, The belt drive on your Snapper mower is a very simple system. The first thing you need to do is to make sure your using the correct factory belt. Not an after market or "will fit". Snappers use a special belt. Your dealer should get you a belt based on your model and serial number. IF YOUR SURE you have the correct belt then check for a couple of things, make sure all belt guides, if any, are on the outside of the belt. Belt guides never go on the inside of the belt, also check the belt tension. If the belt is too tight it can burn on the engine pully when disengeged because most Snappers have a brake that stops the blade pulley from turning when it is disengaged. I don't know the year of your rider with out a serial number, but most Snapper rider deck belt adjustments for loosening it is done by shortening the overall length of the rider by loosening the clamps on the main frame tube just below the seat and sliding it rearward. Thanks, Joe

New question submitted on 2011-01-30 by Steve:
Greetings, I have a JD 1032 snowblower (probably early to mid 80's model). The ground speed shift lever broke & JD dealers don't have availability. Would you happen to have one or know of anyone that would? Thanks for your time

Joe Says:
Steve, I don't have anything at this moment. I'm not sure where to check for a used one as most snow blower of this kind are usually repaired instead of parted out. The other route to go is to have it welded. Joe

New question submitted on 2010-12-15 by deereboy:
What do you have for Ariens snowblowers in stock? Thanks

Joe Says:
At the moment, nothing. I do however have some on the way. Out of the next 3 orders yet to arrive, I have only 3 ST28LE's that are not sold...yet. I can't seem to even get bolwers in the door without them being sold. Then again Ariens makes a great snowblower at a fair price. If your interested in one of these blowers let me know. To find out more about them go to Ariens.com. Thanks, Joe

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